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Oval engagement rings, and why they read bigger than they are

The oval is the most requested fancy shape we make, and the reason is arithmetic rather than fashion. At one carat a round measures 6.5 mm across; an oval at the same weight measures 8 by 6 mm. Same money, more ring on the finger.

What one carat actually measures

Oval, in 14K goldSizePrice
0.68 ct7 × 5 mm$1,270
0.88 ct7.5 × 5.5 mm$1,340
1 ct8 × 6 mm$1,380
1.5 ct8.5 × 6.5 mm$1,530
1.75 ct9 × 7 mm$1,620
2.5 ct10 × 8 mm$1,860

The length-to-width ratio, which is the only real decision

An oval is described by its ratio — length divided by width. Ours run from about 1.25 to about 1.45, and that range covers everything from a softly rounded oval to a distinctly long one.

There is no correct answer, but there is a practical one: the longer the ratio, the thinner the stone is at the sides, and the more it reads as length rather than size. A rounder oval has more visual weight and looks more like a large round stone. If you want the ring to look bigger, choose the rounder ratio rather than paying for more carat.

When you send us an idea, tell us if you want it long or full and we will draw it that way. It is a single instruction to us, and it is the difference between a ring that looks right on her hand and one that nearly does.

Why we are not charging you a fancy-shape premium

Most jewellers charge more for a fancy shape because they buy the stone already cut and the cutter charges for it. We do not: an oval of the same weight and metal costs the same as a round from us.

That is not generosity, it is the model. The stone is the cheap half of a ring — the metal is where the money sits, and the metal is the same either way.

Ovals on real hands

What happens when you ask

Send us what you have — a photo, a Pinterest link, a ring saved in the gallery on this site, or a description. You get a CAD drawing of your ring and an exact price within 48 hours, free and with no obligation. There is a $20 deposit only if you approve the drawing and want it made, and it comes off the final price.

Questions people actually ask

What size is a 1 carat oval diamond?

About 8 by 6 mm in the stones we make. For comparison, a one-carat round is 6.5 mm across, which is why the oval looks like more ring for the same weight.

Which oval ratio looks biggest?

The rounder ones. A long thin oval spreads the same weight over more length, so it reads as longer rather than bigger. If size on the hand is the goal, choose a ratio nearer 1.25 than 1.45.

Is an oval engagement ring as durable as a round?

Yes. Same stone, same hardness. The difference is that an oval's ends are slightly thinner than a round's continuous edge, so it is set with a prong at each point and we would normally set the stone a little lower for daily wear.

Do oval diamonds cost more than round ones?

Not from us. An oval and a round of the same carat and metal are the same price here. Elsewhere you will often pay a premium for a fancy shape because the cutter charges for it.

Does an oval diamond show colour more than a round?

Fancy shapes concentrate colour toward the ends, so an oval at the same grade can read a shade warmer than a round. It is worth knowing before you pay for a colour upgrade you may not need — ask us and we will tell you honestly where your money is better spent.

Design your oval

Free to ask. A drawing and an exact price in 48 hours.

Keep reading

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